
I always liked cows. Cows are awesome.
And pigs. Pigs rule…
I mean, sure they smell. Yes, they wallow in filth. Cows chew their vomit. Pigs are well….pigs. But the seemingly instinctual dirtiness of these animals doesn’t really detract me. I like these creatures. Cows are like the Buddhas of the farm….chilled out freighters of hide and udders, lowing deeply as if in an over-long exclamation of devotion. Forgive my sacrilege, but when you think about it, moo sounds a lot like the Hindu sacred syllable of “om”, but backwards. Kind of. Sorta.
And pigs! Who doesn’t like a fat pig? Sure they bite, but they are apparently as smart as three-year olds, or at least your family dog. Give the smartest pig and my gorgeous three-year-old nephew Oliver a block puzzle, and I’d say we’d have a nearly equal match (both will have, at some point, chewed on the puzzle pieces I’m sure). At the very least,pigs could probably out-do Rover in getting your slippers and playing dead. I mean, they just don’t want to. Pigs have some pride, you know.
It’s this love of pigs and cows that keeps me from consuming them. As a rule, I don’t eat red meat.
Chicken and fish…that’s another story.
When I was 12, I decided to hark the momentous passage of my entrance into womanhood by giving up my faith (seeya Jesus!) and giving up my red meat (no thanks Arby’s!). While other kids in my class dutifully sewed their confirmation sashes over Big Macs, and picked out their sacred names with their sides of bacon, I poured over Egyptian mythology and ate a turkey sandwich. In the small-town confines of the Franco-Catholique communité d’Aurora, it was mildly scandalous. Pas de Jesus, ni de tourtière? Mais comment? Surprisingly, my parents were more-or-less supportive of it.
It wasn’t until my third year of university that I considered taking it one step further. Vegetarianism seemed like a daunting step into the leafy-unknown. Yet after several viewings of Meet Your Meat, an ambush of leaflets from PETA protestors at Dundas Square, and a few bad seafood subs from the residence cafeteria, I felt I could take the plunge. Giving up chicken, turkey and fish wouldn’t be so bad. If all else failed, I liked the Yves substitutes. Their bologna’s pretty good.
In a society increasingly “concerned” (or at least, its a part of the pop vocabulary) about global warming, vegetarianism is a great individual initiative to curb greenhouse gases, lighten dependance on fuel sources, ease dependancy on agro-industrial farming and most importantly, show meaningful compassion to all creatures big and small. It’s a noble cause, especially for those of us that love the quarter-chicken with Chalet sauce. I’ve met many vegetarians who found it was easy enough to slip into the lifestyle, as they never much cared for meat to begin with. For those of us who make good use of our canines, it’s a much harder sacrifice to make.
I lasted two years.
I’m not proud of it, and to my credit, I started off very strong. In January 2005, after making PETA my internet homepage, I renounced all animal products and jumped earnestly into veganism. I poured over cookbooks, researched dietary supplements, and created a bulletin board in my university residence about the value of vegan lifestyle (which was torn down several times and stapled with “FARMERS FEED CITIES“ leaflets). No matter. I drank my soy milk. I learned to cook tempeh. Dark chocolate was…well…not as good as milk chocolate. Whatever; sacrifices had to be made.
I kept it up for several months; yet I remember the breaking points clearly. One was Easter that year….my sister had made a glorious chocolate-and-cherry bread pudding for breakfast. I remember clearly pouting over the gooey corningwear, rummaging through my brain for all the reasons why I wasn’t grabbing a bowl and spoon right this second and stealthfully consuming this casserole-dish of milk-and-eggy goodness. I sneaked a spoonful, and that was the start of the end.
By July, I had had enough of it, and decided to hang up my animal-free ways and just be vegetarian. Much easier. I kept it going, until I started traveling to Europe.
My first destination was Italy, and that was easy enough – I could definitely get by on Caprese salads and Margarita pizzas. But Malta, Holland and Switzerland were another story. Counties like Spain and France wouldn’t have any of it. And as I started to grow and change during my travels, I became keenly aware that meat consumption provided me with a greater physical sense of well-being. I can’t explain it, nor excuse it. I just felt better eating meat. I returned to Canada with a broader mind and diet; the Tofurkey no longer made an appearance at the Thanksgiving and Christmas dinner table.
Again, not proud of it. It is what it is.
It’s been nearly two years since I’ve been eating meat, and I still eat a fairly vegetarian diet, as I tend not to cook much. A good chunk of my friends are vegetarian, and out of respect for them I’ve now made a habit to try not to eat meat when I’m in their presence. Living in Kensington Market, I’m a bit on an anomaly – hipster white kids who live here aren’t usually into animal flesh. Despite my regression, I still hold a great deal of affection and admiration for vegetarianism, veganism, and the whole lifestyle. I bake vegan all the time, I flirt with information packages and Facebook communities, but I can’t bring myself to re-partner with it. Vegetarianism is like a relationship that just won’t work, despite the fact that you like the other person – when it starts, it’s sexy and it’s enticing, you feel healthy and strong, and you get excited to see where it goes…but in the end (for some us), it can leave you frustrated, unsatisfied, and wanting of something with a bit more substance to chew on.
…and that’s as close to a food and relationship analogy as I’ll ever get…
The Lowdown: Fresh Restaurants is the brain child of Gen-X juice entrepeneur, Ruth Tal. Tal has certainly come a long way from serving up smoothies at Edgefest and from her take-out counter across from the Chum City Building (known at that time as ‘Juice For Life”). What started as a smoothie stand has now branched out in Toronto’s hippest vegetarian chain, with three locations in neighbourhoods that are frequented by the socially-aware, environmentally conscious and under-30. For the purposes of this blog, I only reviewed the Annex location at Bloor and Spadina, however it should be noted that Fresh has two more restaurants eager to dole out bowls of brown rice and jicama-goodness: one at Queen and Crawford (close to Ossington); the second at Spadina and Richmond. The chain has grown with such success, that Fresh now has a corporate office on Queen St., and has added cookbooks and reusable bags to it’s items for sale. The menu is entirely vegetarian, with the majority of the mains and appetizers being vegan as well. As one would expect, Fresh espouses a commitment to healthy food, free of additives and preservatives, and makes a point of following through on their name (their motto: “It’s called ‘Fresh’, not ‘Frozen’).
The menu is primarily Cali-Asian and Middle-Eastern inspired, consisting of salads, burgers, wraps, and signature “Fresh Bowls”, filled with veggies, legume-based proteins and your choice of brown rice or soba noodles. They also have a wide variety of appetizers(they’re famous for their sweet potato fries), a laundry-list of smoothies, juices (hot and cold), and desserts. The atmosphere is indie-chic, with seats packed nightly with Annex gurus, U of T students, veggie die-hards and out-of-town youngsters coming from shopping trips in Yorkville. I must confess: I have an insane crush on the primarily female waitstaff at Fresh on Bloor. The place is bused and waited on by some of the most darling, pixie-haired, sweet-cheeked granola grrrrls you’ll ever see . It makes me wonder if Fresh has a policy that all staff must look the result of a copulation between Ani DiFranco and a Cupi Doll. They’re Suicide Girls, but they look cuddly as hell. I wasn’t counting on getting all nervous and starry-eyed while ordering my food, but I can’t help at gawking like a teenager. They’re just so cute!!
The Great: Aside from being adorable, the service at Fresh is spritely and efficient, which is especially good since you may wait as long as 20-minutes to get a table on a busy night. Servers have clearly sampled the wares, are patient as customers pour over the extensive menu, and can give you pairings of smoothies with your entrees. Fresh also has a well-groomed take-out menu which demonstrates that their eco-consciousness spans past their in-house dining. I was delighted to see an entire arsenal of biodegradable, recycled (and leak-free!) take-away containers and bags included in my take-out order.
At my first visit to Fresh, back in 2008, I was told that the joint had some of the best Sweet Potato Fries ($6) in the city. For a place that centres on health-conscious food, I am pleased to say that they have not forsaken this approach when it comes to the fried spuds - they are delicious, savoury, and satisfyingly stringy without being too greasy or gut-rotting. Fresh also makes delightfully yummy baked goods that are often vegan; perfectly sweet and wholesome finishers to your meal. Bests: Big, soft and chewy Double Chocolate Chunk cookie ($4); or the refreshing and moist Mint Chocolate Cupcake ($4).
The Good: Despite expanding their repertoire to food, Fresh hasn’t lost sight of it’s juice-bar roots. It’s advised to keep a menu after ordering if you would like more time to carefully choose a drink, as the options are expansive: Patrons can select from 14 different fruit smoothies (small, $6), 18 different shakes (small, $7), 14 different juices and elixirs (small, $7), plus a gaggle of coffee-based drinks, teas and other assorted beverages. It’s daunting, but the right choice can result in a tasty brew of fruit, veggies and soymilk that beats out any malt shop or Booster Juice. For cold winter days, an Apple Pie Smoothie is a real comfort, and surprisingly delicious given that it’s not as sweet as one would expect. For those who’d like a pucker-your-lips kiss of sugar, there’s the Skinny Dip Protein Shake (which tastes a bit like Hubba-Bubba, if you’re into that..which I am), and for the keener greeners, there’s the very beety Beet Root Frappe vegetable juice. Just try not to get a purple lip out of it.
The Bad: I didn’t want to write this part. Really. I like Fresh. I like the idea of a boutique eco-and-veg friendly spot, hip enough for the meat-eaters and wholistic enough for the tree-huggers. I like that they so earnestly care about their carbon footprint. I REALLY like their sweet and peachy waiters. Alas, after going back to Fresh on Bloor 3 times for this review, I came away less and less charmed with the food, and a dimmed affection for their eager-beaver rhetoric of good, wholistic vegetarian cuisine.
To start, it would seem that Fresh has gotten ahead of itself with it’s massive menu. The restaurant would fair better to provide half of what they offer, and do these dishes very well. Instead, patrons will feel slightly overwhelmed by the extensive spectrum the options- everything from salads, bowls, burgers, soups and assorted apps, wraps, etc., etc. In our wealthy and abundant corner of the world, choices can be a real privilege. At Fresh, with so many options and choice for add-ons (do you also want gorgonzola cheese, soy-cheese, rennet-free cheese, grilled tempeh, marinated tofu, salad topper, all at an extra cost?), too much choice can be burdensome. A good menu is creative and succinct. You practically need a summit to decide what to eat here. Staff is helpful in trying to assist in making a decision, but I prefer to be able to figure out what I want in under 10 minutes.
I won’t go into great detail about individual flops of the various entrees sampled (and many were sampled - from the musty-tasting Miso Burger, $9.50, which bordered on sulphuric….to the I’m-honestly-bored-of-chewing Buddha Fresh Bowl, $12-14). What I will say is that greatest heartbreaker about Fresh lies in it’s violation of one of the crowning qualities of veggie grub- great taste. In fact, after all my visits to Fresh, I became painfully aware that it is woefully guilty of committing one of the great cardinal sins of vegetarian cuisine: it all tastes the same! The majority of the burgers, salads, Fresh Bowls, wraps and appetizers are palletted in one of the following three flavours : nutty (Power House Fresh Bowl, $13-15; Miso Burger); green veggie ( all salads, Holiday Wrap $9.50), or earthy ( Buddha Bowl, White Bean Dosas, $8; Energy Fresh Bowl, $13-15). Where is the tumeric, the cumin, the asofetida, terikyaki, the lavender essence, the chili sauce, the savoury garlic? Heck, can I get a jalapeno? Some ketchup? Forgive the crudeness, but even inexperienced foodies like myself know the crux of good vegetarian lies in the layering and combination of flavours. There is a Cinderella-type quality to vegetarian food that takes healthy-but-bland ingredients, and dress them up in elegant spices, gorgeous extracts and poised herbs. Here, if Cinderella was the lowly tofu steak in my Fresh Bowl, girl would still be scrubbing the dirt floor long past the stroke of midnight. While I appreciate the high, wholistic, health conscious salt-of-the-earth quality of the ingredients, dishes should not taste like earth. It’s as if Fresh has been so preoccupied in brain-storm of it’s menu, or the edgy ambiance of it’s restaurant, that it forgot about flavour of the food.
Trying Fresh once and a while, you may not mind the general lack of taste. Try it several times, and not only do you become disenchanted with it, but the price of the food as well. Bland vegetarianism is a crime unto itself – but bland vegetarian that’s expensive? That’s a slap in my veggie-friendly face. If you’re just going for a burger, it’s not bad. But a bland burger needs an add-on, which Fresh does provide - at a $2 surcharge. Pair that with anything more than water, and you’re walking away at least with a $20 bill per patron after tip (or sometimes before). In an area that greatly caters to vegetarians, there are so many other eco-friendly, tasty veggie spots that will cost you half of what you’d pay at Fresh. Even their Prix Fixe Menu ($21) feels like a rip-off by the end of the meal. Good vegetarian is worth it’s weight in gold (Le Commensal, anyone?) Fresh’s quality ingredients do not justify the high price of uninspiring chow.
The Bottom Line: A friend once told me that she would only consider being vegan if she had her own chef, making her tasty vegan meals and snacks everyday. She felt that the vigilant supervision of her nutrition, dietary upkeep, social sacrifice, and the effort to hunt down much-needed ingredients would all be too much for her to sustain in the long run without someone preparing it all for her. Sometimes I feel that way too – as much as I love chicken and fish, or a good turkey dinner, I could give it up for someone who’d prepare me a delicious seitan stirfry or bulgur chili, or who would supply me with a vegan dish so I’d have something to nosh on at the next dinner party. Sadly, neither of us are in the position to employ private chefs; and if the chefs prepared humdrum meals like the menu at Fresh, how guilty would I feel hiding the evidence of my Harvey’s take-out bag?
In closing: To those who remain steadfast in their vegetarian ideals, my admiration and respect. To those who know how to truly express flavour and taste through the thick veils of beans and tofu, I salute you! May you continue to make the world a more yummy, veggie, friendly, and healthy place.
Fresh On Bloor, 326 Bloor St. West, Toronto, ON. 416-531-2635.
Hours: Monday to Friday, 11:30am – 10pm. Weekends 10:30am-10pm.
Price: $$$ (out of $$$$$)
Cash, Debit and Credit accepted.